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The Potomac river and the bridge crossing into Harpers Ferry, WV
How does the old saying go? “If the cult doesn’t convert you on the first visit – Try, try again!”
That was, however, the story that I tried to sell to Heisenberg’s parents when they dropped us off at the trailhead after Halloween to head south on our journey.
If I’m being completely honest, MD and WV would’ve been a total bust if it wasn’t for the cult and ‘Berg’s family. We had ourselves a lovely double Zero and kept walking towards WV, and the famous town of Harpers Ferry – Home of the ATC and the unofficial halfway mark. After a much-needed cup of coffee, a quick addition to the ATC’s Hiker Log Book (2024 SOBO Hiker #101 reporting for duty!), and a chat with the amazing volunteers at the shop, the ‘Yellow Deli’ Van picked us up – and if there’s anything my mom taught me, it is to never go inside a white, sketchy Van by myself, so I dragged Berg with me!
After a short ride, we crossed the WV-VA state line and made it to Hillsboro, VA, and were welcomed into the 12 tribes’ farm in town. The lush, green pastures, cute wooden cabins, a herd of cows, and a group of kids were not among he things I expected to see when I walked into a cult’s territory, but from my short encounter with them in VT, I knew I was in for an experience. Heisenberg and I unpacked our packs, showed, set our beds, and got ready for the cult’s evening ritual, as one does.
I’ll begin by saying that I, personally, haven’t felt any hostility or threat coming from any tribesmen or women at any point during my 2 visits
neither for being Israeli (they actually liked me for that), or for being Jewish (which is unique for a group of people that believes we set Jesus up and gave him to the Romans). Even so, I cannot ignore the global accusations against the group such as Homophobia, Antisemitism, Child abuse and racism (we were literally told about a so-called ‘correction shed’ at some point during our visit), all of which I couldn’t deny nor confirm until I payed them a visit – so I will neither encourage nor discourage you from paying than a visit, though I will say they make a mean cup of coffee, some great food, and have a killer farm to work on if you’re into that kind of things (I obviously was).
So, as Li- Shan told the Chinese army – Let’s Get Down To Business!
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The rituals
The tribesmen hold a daily ceremony that consists of a bible study session, a prayer for of those who are going to hell for not following Yeshua (yes, other denominations of Christianity included), a group discussion of the way G-D has blessed you today (actually very wholesome), and some Hebrewish folk songs that I couldn’t really put together, but were more than half decent, especially for folks who didn’t grown up in neither Israel or around a synagogue.
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The food
The tribesmen’s diet is strictly vegetarian, which was actually a nice change of pace from trail food. eating purely organic, mostly self-raised vegetables, eggs, dairy, and bread makes your body feel somewhat cleansed, and as any thru-hiker would tell you, that rarely happens in the woods,
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The farm
The comments on FarOut were pretty much unanimous – “DO NOT go to their farm!”, so naturally, we stayed at the farm.
At first, it’ll look the same as any other farm you might wander into: cows, tractors, greenhouses, a chicken slautghering station, you know – the usual stuff. Then we passed the so-called ‘Correction Shed’. You heard me, the shed where kids are sent to be corrected when they misbehave. In hindsight, that should’ve been our cue to hit the road, but our exhaustion, hunger, and curiosity overcame all of the red flags, and we stayed the night.
When the sun rose, we got ready to volunteer around the farm to pay for their hospitality (we weren’t planning no paying cash, and didn’t feel like staying for free). Heisenberg and I spent a few hours cleaning and working in the milking room, and moved out later to the Yellow Deli (the cult’s main source of income) to get some work done. After that, it was dinner time, and that’s when things got real interesting.
Hiker cabins at the cult’s farm
If you were never told by a cult member that you’re going to hell, have you really lived life to the fullest?
Nothing prepared us for our last dinner with the 12 tribes.
At first, it was nothing but a casual dinner, but when the kids went off to thier rooms, ‘Berg and I found ourselves Listening to a heated monologe by noe of the men, telling us about the end of days, when all of those who betrayed Christ (AKA, any Christians besides them) would be burnt in hell, and how a 13 of all thge jews will be joined together in the body of Jesus.
As a Jewish man, I thought my chances were pretty decent. ‘Berg, on the other hand, a Catholic man, wasn’t so happy.
VAWV State line
Later that evening, while Heisenberg and I packed our gear and got ready for bed, we talked over what seemed to be the craziest two days we’ve had on the trail. When the van dropped us off in Harpers Ferry, we couldn’t’ve been more eager to get going. Not a full day later, we met Where’s my? and Ladybug, and went on to conquer Virginia, our Last state on the AT.
So, was it all with it?
I’ll be real honest with y’all, staying with the cult was by far one of my most unique experiences on the AT – but, I would most likely avoid it if you’re a solo Thruhiker, and especially if you’re known to be easily bothered by religious rituals.
For the most part, the 12 tribes were completely harmless, but I would advise to tread lightly, be open minded, and for the love of G-D, don’t call them a cult to their face.
Happy trail, Sherpa (SOBO 24′)
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