West Highland Way Day 5: Rowardennan to Inversnaid

West Highland Way Day 5: Rowardennan to Inversnaid — Honesty Boxes, Lunch on the Loch, and a Weird Sound in the Night

I can’t believe I’m already five days into the West Highland Way. I’ve walked 34 official trail miles (or 44 if you count the Ben Lomond detour — and yes, it was so worth it).

 The weather has been absolutely unreal for mid-March. I packed expecting cold feet, damp socks, and grey skies… and instead, I’ve had five straight days of sunshine and warm air. I’m soaking up every bit of it. Scotland is really showing off, and I’m loving every moment.

Btw – if you missed my blogs from Day 1 or Day 4, I’d recommend checking them out so you can follow along on this journey from the very beginning!

Loch Lomond showing off — calm waters, blue skies, and not a raindrop in sight. Scotland, you’re absolutely stealing my heart.

Quick Recap of Day 5

Currently feeling: Relaxed and deeply content. I’m really glad I stayed two nights in Rowardennan to summit Ben Lomond — it gave me time to breathe and enjoy this slower pace.

3 good things that happened today: 

1. Empire cookies from Ben’s Bakes Honesty Box (maybe my favorite trail snack yet)

2. A slow, sunny lunch break by Loch Lomond, complete with rock skipping

3. Stargazing from a mountain hot tub and hearing something… completely unexpected

A Slow Start (After a Noisy Night)

Today was a short 7-mile walk from Rowardennan to Inversnaid, so I took full advantage of the slow morning. I didn’t sleep much the night before — the hotel was packed with weekenders, and it felt more like a frat house than a quiet trail stop. Loud voices in the hall, doors slamming, people running around drinking — zero respect for anyone else trying to rest. It really irritated me. Grr. 

But somehow I still managed to log 9.5 hours of sleep (bless you, hiking fatigue). I headed down for buffet breakfast and asked for two fried eggs, which weren’t part of the buffet, but the kitchen staff was happy to make them. I sat at the table with a view of Loch Lomond, sipping hot coffee, eating tattie scones, and feeling like everything had settled again.

Not a bad breakfast view — Loch Lomond in all its morning stillness, paired with hot coffee and tattie scones.

A slow morning, hot coffee, and this peaceful view — exactly what I needed after a noisy night.

Trail Safety + Brown Sauce Sandwiches

Before we left, I had a really nice chat with the receptionists about trail safety. They told me that when hikers stay to summit Ben Lomond, they note down the room number and make sure guests return safely each night. I loved hearing that.

Before heading out, I also asked if they could stamp my West Highland Way passport — and they were happy to do it. I completely forgot to get a stamp in Balmaha, and I’m still kicking myself! So now I’ve set calendar reminders on my phone to make sure I don’t miss any more. I’m determined. It’s such a fun little souvenir and a great way to celebrate your progress as you move along the trail.

We checked out and sat on a bench outside to make sandwiches — using up the last of the bread, cheddar, and ham we picked up in Drymen a few days ago. And yes, I added brown sauce — a tangy, slightly sweet condiment that’s super popular in the UK. It’s kind of like a mix between barbecue sauce and Worcestershire, and people here put it on everything from bacon sandwiches to a full cooked breakfast. Still getting used to the flavor, but I’m here for the full cultural experience.

Got my Rowardennan stamp! I missed one back in Balmaha, so now I’ve got daily reminders set — not missing another one!

Ben’s Bakes Honesty Box = West Highland Way’s Trail Magic 

Before getting too far, we made a quick stop at Ben’s Bakes Honesty Box, just past the Rowardennan car park. It was our first fully stocked honesty box on trail — and an absolute gem. We picked up empire cookies, chocolate, and Orion grabbed an Irn-Bru (a bright orange Scottish soda), which he sipped as we walked. 

We’d passed a few other honesty boxes earlier on the trail — one beside Turnip the Beet on Day 1, which we skipped since we had just eaten lunch, and another at Gartness Bridge, which looked like it hadn’t been restocked for the season yet and was a bit sad and empty. So finally stumbling upon Ben’s Bakes was a sweet moment of trail magic.

I didn’t have much cash on me, but thankfully they accept PayPal. It was super easy — I transferred £7 for our treats, and we hit the trail with snacks in hand and big smiles. I love the trust built into these little boxes — they feel like a quiet reminder of kindness and community along the trail.

Trail magic at its finest — Ben’s Bakes Honesty Box was fully stocked with sweet treats, trail essentials, and even PayPal payment for hikers without cash.

Lochside Lunch + Unexpected Celebrity Status

The walk to Inversnaid was peaceful and scenic. It followed the shore of Loch Lomond, with gentle ups and downs and gorgeous views the whole way. Around midday, we found a small pebbled beach and sat down for lunch. I watched the boats cruise along the loch, and at one point, a Loch Lomond tour boat passed by. The guide pointed at us and said, “These hikers are walking the West Highland Way!” Everyone waved from the boat.

I waved back, sandwich in one hand, feeling like a tiny celebrity.

We lingered on the beach for a while, soaking in the calm. Orion showed off his rock skipping skills — he got some seriously impressive bounces. Mine mostly went blop right into the water. I’ve now made it my personal trail mission to get better at rock skipping before this walk is over.

Artifact showing off his rock skipping skills during our lunch break on Loch Lomond — not pictured: my many “blop” attempts into the water lol

Hot Tubs, Homemade Stew, and Jamie Oliver. 

We continued walking along Loch Lomond, weaving between lakeside views and stretches of dense, moss-covered forest that felt straight out of a fairytale. Everything was glowing green, and the soft forest floor made for such a peaceful stretch of trail. Along the way, we visited our first bothy — Rowchoish Bothy — a basic shelter tucked deep in the woods. It was so cool to finally see one in person after hearing so much about them. 

Before heading to our accommodation at Garrison of Inversnaid (about a mile off-trail), we made a quick stop at Inversnaid Hotel — because yes, I’m still on my passport mission and I wasn’t about to miss another stamp. I told you, I’m determined!

Mossy paths, quiet forest, and my happy place — walking through the woods near Rowchoish Bothy felt like stepping into a Scottish fairytale!

Arriving at Inversnaid Hotel for a quick mission — leave the rucksack in the dry room, find reception, and get that West Highland Way passport stamped!

We arrived at Garrison of Inversnaid around 4:45pm. After a quick rinse, I slid into the outdoor hot tub, which is sourced by a natural spring from the nearby mountains. It was quiet, peaceful, and ridiculously relaxing.

The Garrison of Inversnaid has a pretty interesting past. It was originally built back in the 1700s as a military garrison to help control Jacobite activity in the Highlands. Wild to think that what’s now a peaceful guesthouse with a mountain-fed hot tub was once a key strategic post. I love staying in places with a bit of history — especially when they come with cozy rooms, hot tubs and home cooked warm meals!

Dinner was delivered to our room by our lovely host Kelly — a homemade vegetable and beef stew. We ate in our bathrobes, watching Jamie Oliver on TV explore local foods across the UK, including Scotland. Very on-theme!

Cozy trail dinner: homemade beef and vegetable stew delivered to our room — perfect after a long day of walking!

Stars, Stillness… and a Strange Sound

Later that night, I looked outside and saw that it was a perfectly clear sky — full moon, stars shining, barely a cloud in sight. We jumped back into the hot tub in the dark and lay there under the sky, pointing out constellations. I spotted Orion’s Belt (which felt fitting), and we found the Big Dipper too.

Hot tub, full moon, and starry skies — the perfect way to end Day 5 on the West Highland Way. Pure magic.

Then we heard it — a high-pitched yapping sound echoing across the hills. It instantly reminded me of coyotes I’ve heard while hiking in California or Colorado. But… this is Scotland. No coyotes here.

I was so curious.

In the morning, I asked Kelly about it — and she told me we’d heard something incredibly rare: the raccoon dog. They’re known to live around the area, but sightings (or soundings?) are almost impossible to come by. Hearing one is a bit of a trail blessing. Super cool.

Our home for the night — the Garrison of Inversnaid, a cozy and welcoming spot with deep roots in Scottish history.

I went to sleep that night feeling calm and tired in the best way. There’s something about long-distance hiking that always gives me the deepest sleeps. Maybe it’s the fresh air, the movement, the wildness, or maybe it’s just the quiet satisfaction of a life lived fully for a few weeks at a time.

Whatever it is, I slept for 9 hours straight — and woke up ready to keep going north.