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West Highland Way Day 6: Inversnaid to Inveranan – Roots, Caves, and a Roast
It’s Day 6 on the West Highland Way, and I’m really glad I broke up the standard West Highland Way itinerary. In the past, I’ve followed those classic day-by-day guides and always ended up feeling rushed and exhausted by the end. This time, I wanted to walk slower. To actually enjoy the moments. Take side trips. Sit by the water. Have enjoyment while walking.
So today was a short one — just 7 miles from Inversnaid to Inverarnan — but it definitely didn’t feel like a “short day”.
Btw – if you missed my blogs from Day 1 or Day 5, I’d recommend checking them out so you can follow along on this journey from the very beginning!
Haven’t washed my hair in six days… I think I can officially call myself hiker trash now. This walk has been full of cozy rooms and pub meals, but I needed a little bit of that wild trail energy too!
Quick Recap of Day 6
Currently feeling: Content after a wonderful evening relaxing in the hot tub and stargazing. I sometimes pinch myself tha this is my life. But at the same time, today I’ve felt really demotivated to hike and feeling a bit bored.
Quote that inspired me today:
“Enjoy the little things, for one day you may look back and realize they were the big things”
Starting West Highland Way Day 6: Coffee, Cereal & Birdsongs
I slept so well — nine hours again — and woke up around 7 a.m. to birds chirping outside our room at the Garrison of Inversnaid. This was one of our pricier stays on trail (it was our only option in this stretch), and I’d been a bit nervous about whether it would be worth the cost. But it totally was.
We stayed in this sweet little studio with an ensuite bathroom, and everything about it felt peaceful and cozy. No need to leave the room for anything — dinner was delivered right to us, so we spent the evening in bathrobes, watching Jamie Oliver on TV and eating homemade stew.
Soaking in the hot tub at Garrison of Inversnaid, thinking about how lucky I am to end a trail day like this. Stargazing, quiet skies, and total peace.
And of course, there was stargazing from the hot tub and hearing the infamous raccoon dog call echoing through the hills (more about that wild little moment in Day 5 post. It all just felt… special. Quiet. Exactly what I needed after a few big hiking days.
Breakfast wasn’t included, but I’d planned ahead with cereal and instant coffee. They left out some fresh milk for us — literally from the Highland cow outside — and I made a little cup and sat on the bench out front, soaking up the stillness while Artifact packed up inside.
It was a slow and gentle morning — and I really loved it.
The Garrison of Inversnaid — a pricey stop, but totally worth it. Once a military post in the 1700s, now a cozy stay with homecooked stew, bathrobes, and hot tubs under the stars.
Challenging terrain and trail moods
We left around 10 a.m. without a packed lunch — but I’d carried out a few extra tattie scones from Rowardennan, so I figured we’d be fine.
If I’m being honest, today was tough. Not mileage-wise, but mentally.
The trail winds through these steep, uneven bits along the loch — roots, rocks, mud, slick boulders. The kind of walking where your eyes are always on your feet and it’s hard to get into any rhythm. I’ve been hiking for six days straight now, with zero breaks and a mountain summit thrown in, and today it hit me. I just didn’t really want to hike. I was dragging my feet, craving a day off, and missing the feeling of being excited to walk.
And I felt guilty feeling this way.
How can I possibly feel bored?
I’m in the Scottish Highlands. I’m on this beautiful trail. I’ve worked hard to make this happen, and here I am… not wanting to be here.
But that’s the reality of long walks. Even when you’re in a place you love, even when it’s stunning, you don’t love every second. And I’m slowly learning that’s okay. You can feel grateful and still be a little tired. You can feel lucky and still need a rest.
Tired legs, heavy head. Some days on trail are less about the views and more about pushing through the mental fog. Grateful to be here — and also just really needed a break.
The terrain wasn’t all bad though. There’s a section of old-growth oak forest that’s really beautiful — soft light filtering through the trees, moss everywhere. Signs mentioned carnivorous plants like butterwort and sundew grow here (though still too early to see them). Apparently, this is also where the elusive pied flycatcher nests. We mostly saw wrens and robins.
Rob Roy’s Cave + some very chill goats
We took a little side trip to check out Rob Roy’s Cave, which was way harder to reach than I expected — tucked between huge boulders, right down by the water. It definitely looked like a place someone could hide out.
Scrambled down to check out Rob Roy’s Cave — tucked between boulders and way harder to reach than I expected. No wonder it made such a good hideout.
Lunch was… snacky. Leftover tattie scones, Pringles, cookies. We didn’t really stop long, just enough to sit on a rock and eat.
A bit later, we came across a herd of wild goats — probably 20 or so, with a few babies. They were grazing on the hillside next to the trail and barely noticed us as we passed by. It felt like a little bonus moment.
Trail traffic on Day 6 — spotted a whole herd of wild goats, including some curious little babies. They barely flinched as we walked past.
Loch Lomond, skipping rocks, and slowing down
There are so many lovely little beaches along Loch Lomond — perfect for breaks if you’re not in a rush. We stopped at one to sit, rest, and skip rocks (well, Orion skipped rocks — I mostly plopped them straight into the loch). The water was calm and glassy, and I could’ve stayed there for hours.
One last look at Loch Lomond before we head further north. I’ve loved walking alongside this loch — peaceful, wild, and grounding in all the right ways.
One thing I’m really working on this trip is not always rushing toward the next thing — the next mile, the next town, the next bed. I do that a lot. It’s a hard habit to break. So I’ve been trying to catch myself and pause. Actually sit during breaks. Look around. Listen. Take in where I am. These shorter days help. They give me room to breathe.ious and didn’t stray too far as we walked by them grazing on the hills next to the trail.
Trying not to rush toward the next thing. Taking real breaks. Sitting still. Listening. These shorter days are giving me space to actually be where I am — and I’m so grateful for that.
The Haunted Inn
We got to Inverarnan around 4 p.m. and wandered over to the Beinglas Campsite hoping to visit the shop — but it’s still closed for the season (opening Thursday). Bit of a bummer since we were relying on it to resupply for the next stretch, as we’d run out of food.
Arrived at The Drovers Inn — one of Scotland’s oldest (and most haunted!) inns. Creaky floors, taxidermy on the walls, and all the quirky charm I was hoping for.
We’re staying at The Drovers Inn tonight — a very quirky, creaky old place that’s full of character… and apparently haunted. It’s one of the oldest licensed inns in Scotland (dating back to 1705), and they really lean into the haunted vibes — taxidermy, tartan carpets, old portraits on the walls, creaky floorboards.
Stepping into the bridal suite at The Drovers Inn — couldn’t wait to see what kind of haunted charm this old place had in store for us.
We made a dinner reservation for 5:30 p.m. and yep, it’s Sunday roast day. I was so ready. Big plate of roast meat, potatoes, gravy, and veggies, plus a pint of ale. Perfection.
Cheers to Day 6 on the West Highland Way — tired legs, wild goats, rocky trail, and one very well-earned pint.
Since it’s still off-season, they’re not doing packed lunches yet (not until April), so we’re planning to sneak a few extras from the breakfast buffet tomorrow and pack those out for the next day. Looks like it’s tattie scones again… not mad about it.
I’m a little tired today, a bit low-energy — but I’m still proud of myself for being out here, doing the thing. Not every day has to be amazing. Some days are just about showing up, taking the next step, and being kind to yourself along the way. And honestly, that’s enough.
Tucked into bed at The Drovers Inn — full belly, happy heart, and maybe a ghost or two keeping watch. Goodnight from Day 6.
Heading to bed now, full and warm. Here’s to another day on trail tomorrow.
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