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As a thru-hiker, a lot of effort goes into planning (i.e., gear lists, resupply strategies, training hikes), but no amount of preparation can fully capture what it’s like until you’re actually out on the trail.
Crazy Cook Monument – New Mexico
That truth hit hard when we arrived at the Crazy Cook Monument at 3 PM, right in the peak of the day’s heat. It took several attempts to access the correct road to the southern terminus. However, once we had, the sweltering air wrapped around us like a blanket, making even the first few miles feel brutal.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “CDT Southern Terminus”, April 2025.
Sleeping Near Mexico Border
After a long first day of getting thoroughly toasted by the sun, we called it early and crashed next to an old windmill right by the Mexican border.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Cowboying by the Windmill”, April 2025.
We found an old, weathered building overlooking the soft sweep of rolling hills. With little desire to set up our tent, we cowboy camped under the desert stars.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Abandoned Building at Mexico Border”, April 2025.
Challenges of the Desert: Heat Exhaustion
You can’t speak of the desert without mentioning the relentless sun. Shade was scarce, and the long water carries stretched across a rolling, exposed landscape. On our second day, we pushed through the morning into early afternoon, only to arrive at camp wilted. Heat exhaustion set in making our heads ache and stomachs turn. The desert was already testing us, revealing its harsh lessons early. In our search for relief, we’d press ourselves against shaded rock walls or curl beneath whatever sparse shrubs we could find. And on the rare occasion we stumbled upon a juniper, its branches became our sanctuary with just enough shade to sleep through the worst of the heat.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Sleeping Under a Juniper Tree”, April 2025.
But it never felt like enough. Every hiker we met was seeking refuge in the tiniest pockets of shade, all trying to escape the unforgiving sun. At the end of one long, scorching day, we crossed paths with a hiker who shared his words with us.
“PCT will break your heart…CDT will break your soul.” – Abear, CDT 2025
I couldn’t agree more. The desolate rolling hills, cactus, shrubs, and dry dirt roads continued on.
Night Hiking to Lordsburg
Recognizing that every body has its limits in such extreme heat, we made the decision to rest during the day, seeking out water and shade, and then begin our hikes in the cool of the late evening, around 7 or 8 PM.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Waking Up For Our Night Hike”, April 2025.
The miles felt easier under the coolness of the night. The moon often shone so brightly that the trail was bathed in a soft, silvery glow. It was enough to keep my headlamp off, letting the quiet of the desert envelop us. Despite the common fears around hiking at night, I found peace in the stillness, occasionally interrupted by the eerie call of a distant coyote. By the time we saw the sun creeping over the horizon, it was time for our second breakfast, or lunch, depending on how you looked at it. This was often followed by a quick siesta to fight off the lingering fatigue.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Taking a Morning Break,” April 2025.
Learnings
1. A thru-hike teaches you to slow down.
No gear can completely protect you from sun exposure. This requires adapting to the environment you are in. It also means, being okay with slowing down and taking time to watch the clouds pass by.
Video Source: Paige Combs, “Break in the Clouds”, April 2025.
2. A thru-hike surprises you.
Some days we complete 10 miles and other days we complete 20 miles. As long as we are moving forward, we are making progress. The trail always finds surprising ways to provide kindness.

Image Source: Paige Combs, “Waking Up to Horses,” April 2025.
Stats in the Wilderness:
Temperature Range: 44° Low – 103° High
General Location: Monument at Mexico border to city of Lordsburg
Indigenous Land: Chiricahua Apache
Whose land am I on? Learn why it’s important to respect the land we travel on.
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