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“People who hike the Appalachian Trail will surely encounter adventure, challenges, surprises, friendships, and maybe even a spiritual experience!”
– 7th grade Stevie 😎 in a report on the Appalachian Trail
- Hiked Today: 5.3 mile
- Appalachian Trail (104.3 – 109.6)
- Total Hiked: 2,034.1 miles
- Total Paddled: 99.5 miles
Weather: 55 – 65°F, raining
Elevation: 3,688 – 4,470 feet
Final Four Spot to Winding Stair Gap
At 5:30 am, it started downpouring. The kind of rain that hits the earth and splatters tiny bits of dark mud onto the sides of my tent. It went solid for a half hour, but then halted, a pause in the storm. I would normally sleep longer, but convinced myself this was my window to go grab my food bag. After that, I retreated back under the tent fly and laid there for a bit before starting breakfast. The rain picked up, but then again, a lull. I took advantage and packed everything up, hitting the trail at 7:35 am thankful to be somewhat dry still.
I had about five miles until I reached Winding Stair Gap. A few days back I’d guesstimated my mileage and timing for reaching this point. Highway 64 leads into the town of Franklin North Carolina and so I booked a stay at The Grove Hostel. They offer a shuttle service that picks up at 10:45 am and drops off the next day around 8:00 am. I liked the schedule idea and the having sure rides to town and back.
It rained the entire morning hike. I was taking my time suspecting I’d be early and not wanting to have to stand still too long and get cold in the rain. I also had only 10% battery left on my phone (coming in on empty again), so it was not like I would be able to pass the time perusing on there.
Around 9:45 am, I reached a little signage awning with two hikers underneath, Ashton and Logan and they too were going to The Grove. We chatted some and hung out staying “dry” while waiting.
I texted the shuttle driver saying the three of us had arrived in case there was a chance of getting picked up early, but my phone died quickly afterwards. Chatting with my new hikers friends, I found they’re from Virginia. Around 10:30 am we were all excited to hear a car horn from below. Hauling our packs on, we tromped down together. There was an SUV waiting already filled with some hikers who’d gotten picked up at an earlier gap. Bluebs, our driver and one of the current owners of the hostel, helped get us and our packs inside. He was a great tour guide as we entered into town, especially since he had gotten us donuts! My guy.
In no time, we were pulling up to the hostel and piling out. They have a room with hooks and close lines to dry stuff out. We all dropped out packs and received a short tour of the place. I’ll admit, for how many of us there were, things were a bit tight. But it was cozy and warm and there were other clean smiling hikers to meet!
I got right into spreading my wet gear out and then right into cleaning myself up. It really felt like it’d been a while since the last shower! Willow, the other co-owner, runs the laundry operations and so I got my bag of dirty things to be washed to her. Then, jumped right into a wonderful hot shower. Halle-freaking-lujah! So nice. And afterwards, I got to use some “loaner clothes.” The best hostels offer these for hikers since we essentially only carry one outfit to wear, which is problematic when that one outfit goes into the wash. I was loving it already and so happy to be inside on this very rainy day!
My one outing for the day was a resupply trip to Walmart. I’m still not exactly sure how it worked out this way, but for some reason I was a solo trip to the store. Others went at a different time and their shuttle was packed. I enjoyed my time getting to chat with Willow on the drive to and from the store though. She dropped me off and went to go grab something else in town.
I tried to add some variety this time so will be doing granola for breaky and a hummus wrap for lunch. Crazy, right? Dinners, I managed to scrounge from the hostel hiker box. I also picked up an additional power bank to add to my collection. I’m sick of rationing my phone use and to still feel like it’s getting drained too early. So now I’ll be carry an excessive 35,000 milliampere-hour (mah) of power! I imagine most carry a 10,000 mah or a 20,000 mah, but whatevs.
Back at the hostel, I chatted with folks, ate, caught up on blogs, researched ahead, watched UConn destroy Soutj Carolina in the women’s National Championship game, wrote some postcards, and relaxed in my fun loaner clothes attire. One downer was that I discovered the rash that I first took to be a sweat-related thing at my hip belt seems to be something more. I’m thinking poison ivy and that spot on my hip is just the epicenter from where it spread from. I got lucky with their being some anti-itch cream in the hiker box though.
Pizza rolls!
Sadly decided to get rid of the super purple psychedelic gaiters… new pair arriving soon.
Someone recently commented that I was looking a little thin, losing weight from the toll of the trail, and recommended downing some ice cream. Well, I followed the Dr.’s orders with a pint of Ben and Jerry’s Half Baked. I wanted Phish Food, but they were out. My new buddy, Kermit, also got some. His go-to is Cherry Garcia!
I had planned to visit Lazy Hiker Brewing Co. in town with some of the others staying at the hostel, but turns out, I’m the lazy hiker. Actually, having got some snacks from the store for dinner, there being a bountiful selection of sodas, and me feeling slightly stressed already about finishing my town tasks, I decided a more relaxed hang felt better. No regrets on that decision. I’ll hit up some other breweries along the way for sure.
Some Thoughts On The First Week
Witnessing firsthand these first 110 miles of the AT has been an amazing experience. One of the most profound takeaways for me is the tenacity of those starting out who have never done anything like this before. On the PCT in 2019, I was one of those folks to some extent, but it feels different here. I met hikers who said this is there first time backpacking. They’re figuring it out as they go. And just by stepping foot on this trail and trying, I have huge respect for that.
This trail is not easy! The terrain is tough and the weather is tough. I have quite a few miles under my hip belt with my setup pretty dialed in at this point and I’ve had some serious moments of struggle and frustration. For folks to be completely fresh to all this and still continue moving forward; it’s inspiring. On the flip side too though, I’ve already heard folks say their getting off trail. I truly admire those making that extremely difficult decision as well.
Me coming in to the AT having hiked “the ECT approach” of around 1,900 miles and making a good pace, I feel somewhat of an outsider. It’s not a bad thing necessarily, just the reality that I will not have the same experience as many out here. For instance, I probably am not going to see many of the hikers I meet again, or at least for a while. That’s what it’s been at the beginning anyways… I meet a bunch of folks one day and then the next day there’s a while new batch I get to talk to. I observe others gaining familiarity with one another,sharing and commiserating in a brotherhood of camaraderie, and I experience that on some level, but there’s still a large portion of solo to what I’m doing.
This observation of me being somewhat separate isn’t something I’m worrying about or feeling bad about, rather it’s just something I’ve noticed. I’ll have to see if it stays true as I keep going and as other hikers gain their trail legs. There are also steps I can take that will allow more of the social aspects too. For now, it’s all good. I’m taking it one day at a time out here and having a ton of fun soaking in the AT experience! I’m so thankful to have the opportunity to be doing this and every day have woken up eager to see what’s around the next bend. I’ve also met some wonderful people and feel I’m in a unique position to support other hikers around me if nothing else through encouragement.
“The Reward of Nature”
Emma “Grandma” Gatewood (Luxenburg as quoted in my 7th grade report ☺️)
“If you’ll go with me to the mountains
And sleep on the leaf carpeted floors
And enjoy the bigness of nature
And the beauty of all out-of-doors,
You will find your troubles all fading
And feel the Creator was not man
That made lovely mountains and forests
Which only a Supreme Power can…
When we trust in the Power above
And with the realm of nature bold fast,
We will have a jewel of great price
To brighten our lives till the last…
For the love of nature is healing,
If we will only give it a try
And our reward will be forthcoming
If we go deeper than what meets the eye.
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