Days 9-13: Settling into the Routine

• Start: Hiawasee, GA
• End: Nanhalaha Outdoor Center, NC

Welcome back, trail friends! This past week marked a major shift: leaving the honeymoon phase and slowly settling into the rhythms of trail life. With North Carolina now underfoot, my days are falling into a predictable, if challenging, cadence: wake, hike, eat, hike, eat, hike, set up camp, sleep (sort of). Then do it all again.

Day 9: Hiawasee, GA to Muskrat Creek Shelter

A slower start to the day after a final town reset. I took my time packing up, loading up on veggies and hummus (real food!), and got a hitch back to the trail from hostel owner Dom.

The big milestone? Hello, North Carolina! It felt momentous, if a little chilly. A cold wind rolled in as I set up camp, and by dusk, I was huddled in my tent, bracing for freezing temps.

I’m realizing your hiking group will change frequently as individuals go faster or slower, depending. I ran into a friend I hadn’t seen since Day 2, and another couple who had been with me for several days have now pushed on ahead. The weather is clearly becoming a bigger factor.

Day 10: Muskrat Creek Shelter to Betty Creek Campsite

I woke up to a tent encased in frost and numb fingers. I couldn’t feel my feet for the first hour. Those of you who know me well (and even those that know me tangentially since I need little encouragement to complain about the cold) will understand that I was not a happy lady. In regular life I often set my thermostat to 76 degrees, and here I am waking to temps in the 30s. Not cool. (Pun intended.

Thankfully the day warmed both literally and figuratively, and by day’s end, I’d pushed farther than planned. My reward: my first campfire on the trail. The burn bans have been lifted, and so have our spirits. The tent pads were nestled in rhododendrons, and the fire brought a magical sense of trail camaraderie as only fire can.

Day 11: Betty Creek Campsite to Winding Stair tent site

Milestone alert: I passed 100 miles! Now just… well still more than 2000 miles left, but progress nonetheless!

The morning climb was wicked, but the views—and the emotional win—were worth it. I took an easier day than planned and ended at an unofficial campsite.

Spring is just barely teasing its way in. Buds on branches, tiny green sprouts under the leaf litter… ironic, since I’m still shivering most mornings.

Day 12: Winding Stairs tent site to Wayan Shelter

I skedaddled first thing in the morning to beat forecasted afternoon storms. With barely a breakfast, I set out. Trail magic in the form of orange soda, and a surprise meetup with a hiker I hadn’t seen since day 2 (now bestowed the trail name “Sparky”), gave the day a appreciated lift.

I booked it to Wayah Shelter and hunkered down just in time— storms hit not long after I arrived. Two different storm systems rolled through, one from 2-3 and one from 6-8, bringing sleet, thunder, lightening, and 25 mph winds.

This served as my first night in a shelter! A tactical move given the weather. I put aside thoughts of mice and appreciated the relative safety it provided, my thoughts staying with the other hikers and hoping they were safe in their tents.

Day 13: Wayah Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center

What. A. Day. I’d been debating a shorter hike or a big push to finish up this section. Waking early, I decided to go for it—and I’m glad I did.

The morning brought incredible trail magic from three Louisiana guys (Holy Shit, Big Head, and Joey), complete with boudin sausage, Diet Coke, phone charging, and warmth from a fire pit. Best spread of the trail so far. I continue to be amazed by the groups and individuals who take time from their life to provide these kindnesses (perhaps a topic for a future blog!)

Coming into Tellico Gap, I was halfway done and thinking about my night’s accommodations. I met Janelle, sister of another hiker Beth. Once Beth and her stepson made it to the gap, they offered to slack pack me the rest of the way to the NOC. Offer readily accepted! The final ascent to Wesser Bald lookout was stunning—360° views after a hard climb. The descent was a knee-jammer, but my lighter load helped both my feet and knees and let me run part of it to (unsuccessfully) beat coming rain.

Finished the day with burgers and Mac & Cheese at Big Wesser. Then off to a cozy barn-themed tiny home hosted by Gorgeous Stays. Epsom salt foot soak included.

More insights from week 2

• The Routine Is Real: Mornings start cold and grumpy, but there’s a rhythm forming. It’s becoming… normal?
• Gear Glitches Happen: My Coros is temporarily dead (charging cord arriving soon), but it’s a reminder: the trail doesn’t stop when your gadgets do. And I swear I hiked those Day 11 miles, even if I don’t have the stats to prove it.
• People Come and Go: Hiking circles are fluid. One day you’re sharing dinner, the next you’re 10 miles apart.
• Weather Rules Everything: Have I mentioned I hate the cold? The forecast influences it all, so flexibility is everything.
• Trail Magic Is Real: It isn’t just snacks—it’s the conversations, the warmth, and the kindness from total strangers.

The next section will take me deeper into North Carolina and introduce me to Tennessee. My feet are toughening and my brain is adjusting to the rhythm, so I’m starting to feel more like a real thru-hiker. Most of all, I’m learning to trust the flow.

Next stop: the Smokies.

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