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New Mexico is the Land of Enchantment. Having the good fortune to see so much of it that I have never seen before, although I have driven past it. Exploring a place on foot invokes a sense of wonder. Going further and further into the Gila Wilderness provided some unexpected difficulties. Were I to do the CDT again I might opt for staying on the red line and avoiding the Gila Alternate. The high route provided many challenges specifically with water or lack thereof and some of the altitude gains over 9000 feet.

I felt strong through this section, though my hips were bothering me some and I attribute it to carrying a different and heavier pack for several days. I do have to acknowledge that I have osteoarthritis in my big toes knee and hips. I tell people that I attribute that to disco as it claims another victim so many years later. I met no other hikers on this section and the snowfall on one day gave an increased sense of isolation.

My problems with resupply continued as the two boxes sent to reserve, New Mexico did not show up, but my new Aarn pack from New Zealand did. That’s a head scratcher. I have to give thanks and gratitude to two new friends Paula and Juan for shuttling me almost 50 miles in and out from the trailhead to Reserve. The unexpected double zero waiting for my boxes gave my body a chance to rest and to enjoy the wonderful town folk and the delicious food at Smokey’s. It was nice being asked by an elderly lady which Gutierrez I belong to. As my grandfather was from Las Vegas, New Mexico there is a good chance. There are distant relatives in this area.

Elfego Baca

I felt sure the buzzards in the trees were waiting for me to get back out on Trail

Breakfast burrito at Smokey’s

The accommodations at the Mountaineer Inn in Reserve we’re spacious, modern, and comfortable. They were good to me and helped me with my laundry. The grocery store in town has a good selection and there is also a Dollar General.

Day 13

It was a nice cool morning, leaving Gila Hot Springs and walking the road toward the Gila Cliff Dwellings visitor center. The short tour of the center is very informative, and the staff helpful. The water spigot was still winterized though you could fill your bottles in the bathroom. I recommend taking as much as you can carry if you are taking the Gila High Alternate.

I went to look for the cliff dwellings and must’ve missed the sign and continued on my way. Oh well, I’ve been to Mesa Verde. As I walked onto the high route, a storm was in the distance and moving toward me. The sky looked ominous. Snow came on and off and beautiful view after beautiful view was seen on the high route. I have mentioned that I do not like to be down in the canyon, though it may be pretty. I enjoy seeing the open expanses much more.

The first water source was bone dry, the more open forest  floors are my favorite part. Towards the evening, the snow started coming in earnest and I settled in for the night. About .7 miles from me was a creek so I knew I had access to water for the morning, although it was off my route.

Day 14

The snow continued through the night, and I had to knock it off the walls of my tent frequently. The morning brought a oh white landscape and cold temperatures. My Zenbivy 25 degree ultralight sleep system had held. Still, I was looking forward to having my 10° bag when it came with my resupply. It was cold and quiet walking through the snow and by late morning it all had melted.

Again, open forest floors are my favorite. While the snow was on the ground, you could see where the Tom turkeys have been making their rounds. My pace seems to have slowed significantly in looking back at my videos. I seem to be rocking more while walking, which means my hips are bothering me even more.

I came across the second water source, which was about 16 miles from my starting point and is called Trick Tank was mostly dry. There are small pools and a 2 foot diameter pipe in the ground close to the cabin at that location. I was able to push 2 liters of clear water through no filter before it stopped. This is why I always keep a back up. These 2 liters would have to keep me for a bit. The Scottish slang for that water source is “Manky”.  I pushed on until I got to Creek for there was ample, clear,and running water. My back up filter was a Sawyer mini squeeze and it worked well enough on this water. I decided to call it a day and rest up a little more. A quiet little glen with great camping spots.

Day 15

I had slept well enough and woke curly. Breakfast consist of crème brûlée, a hot Mountain House meal, and two RecPaks. I was trying to get enough calories in me to hold me till noon.

Thanks to the Garmin Messenger app I was able to make shuttle arrangements forAeroplane Mesa from a friend of Mike’s at Doc Campbell’s post. Paula had agreed to meet me around noon so several miles in the deep Canyon between me and the Mesa I packed quickly so that I could get to my ride. The Tom turkeys serenaded me in the morning as they were coming down the hill towards Clear Creek.

It seemed as though they were letting me know that it was time for me to clear out of their home. If you watch the accompanying video to this on YouTube you’ll hear a Tom and I talk back-and-forth. The first mile or so it was a whole bunch of uphill.

This was followed quickly by a whole bunch of downhill about 900 feet in elevation loss and about half mile later 1000 feet of elevation gain. The bright spot of this was crossing Middle Fork and again drinking my fill of good water. Once out of the canyon, there was a continual and gradual elevation gain going over whatever the mountains name was to reach Aeroplane Mesa.

On the downhill in the distance was the white pick up truck that I knew had to be my ride. I was greeted by several of Paula’s dogs and we started the long ride into.Reserve. We ran across a couple of herds of elk along the road and Paula talk to me about the wonders of the area. I checked in at the Mountaineer Inn and we shared a meal at Smokey’s great New Mexican cuisine on the menu.

I turned in for the night, not knowing that I would be getting more rest here than anticipated. I will return to this town again this year for the area and the people. This is a special place.

Final Thoughts

We do not have to become heroes overnight. Just a step at a time, meeting each thing that comes up, seeing it is not as dreadful as it appeared, discovering we have the strength to stare it down.” —Eleanor Roosevelt

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