Day 1 SASH #10: Amicalola Falls SP to Springer Mountain Shelter, GA

“Misty mornin’, don’t see no sun; I know you’re out there somewhere having fun; There is one mystery, yeah (I just can’t express); To give your more, to receive your less” Bob Marley

29 March – – So, out the BaseCamp door I went, and took the obligatory photograph at the Archway. But I did not turn around and immediately start hiking up the Approach Trail. A few days before departing Maryland I received some very good advice through Instagram from Leon, an ATC Trail Ambassador who volunteers at the BaseCamp. Leon had read my concerns about the Amicalola Falls stairs on the Approach Trail in my journal here on The Trek. My concern centered on the opportunity cost of climbing the stairs versus the risk of aggravating my notoriously bad hip pain at the very beginning of the hike. His advice; it is not necessary to climb the stairs. Instead, it is possible to hike the East Ridge Trail to the top of the falls and then continue on the Approach Trail. After looking at the park’s hiking trail map, I came up with an even better idea. I saw a road and it is possible to drive to the top of the falls and park right next to the Approach Trail. This would give me an opportunity to view the falls with Nightingale (which we had discussed in planning, but didn’t think she could make the hike to the falls). A win-win situation, I saved some inevitable stress on my hips from climbing the stairs and we could still view the Amicalola Falls together!

Viewing the falls with Nightingale was the perfect way to start this famous section. Mist and clouds still hung over the North Georgia Mountains, but that also meant the temperature was perfect for hiking. The Approach Trail tracks through a mixed hardwood new growth forest, mostly oak and hickory, all still bare of leaves. The occasional older, gnarled tree made an appearance just off the trail. The only green was a few loblolly pines, mountain laurel, and holly trees. Spring, however, was peaking through the ground. Bloodroot flowers lined the trail all the way to the top of Springer Mountain. Yellow and purple violets, along with star chickweed, bloomed here and there.

While mostly a continuous ascent, the hike up the Approach Trail from the top of the falls was fairly moderate, contrary to its sometimes strenuous reputation; maybe because I skipped the stairs. Stopping to take photos of the signs of spring also made the hike easier. Despite the number of hikers at BaseCamp, it wasn’t until almost the top that I passed one hiker mixing up some electrolyte drink, who declared his “legs were jello.” I sat down on a boulder and had my own drink near Black Gap Shelter. Here is where I met two friends I would hike with for the next few days. A man and a woman came up the Approach Trail; the man said in English with a German accent that I had found a great seat. I responded in German – I always enjoy the look on a German hiker’s face when I recognize their accent and respond in their language. Axel and Edna turned out to be a father/daughter team from Berlin attempting their thru hike. I had lived in Berlin in the early 1980s; so, we had a lot to share. I would catch up with them again on this day at Springer Mountain Shelter.

I arrived around 3:30pm to Springer Mountain summit and the AT’s Southern Terminus. The only person there was a Ridge Runner, sitting and eating on a rock. He didn’t say anything as I approached the boulder with the first white blaze and plaque. I thought to myself, he must be letting hikers have their personal space to take in the special moment of arriving at Springer. Strangely, I did not feel anything special. I set down my backpack, walked over and took a few photos of the first blaze and the two plaques. With the cloud cover, there was no view. I imagined myself sitting at the summit for a bit and just taking in the experience. But even after taking the photos, I did not feel anything more than I had before when taking a photo of something on the trail that caught my eye. A group of day hikers seemed to be more excited to be on Springer. I signed the log book with a haiku and something about acceptance, adaptability, and perseverance; but can no longer remember the exact words. I should have taken a photo. “Jello legs” made it up to the summit and also took a few photos of the blaze and plaques. “Jello legs” left first. As I rucked up to leave, the Ridge Runner asked where I was headed for the night and I told him Springer Mountain Shelter. He advised that was a good idea since Stover Creek was already almost at capacity, including some college outdoor club outings for the weekend. I was at the summit probably no more than 10 minutes and headed for Springer Mountain Shelter.

When I arrived at the shelter, there were only a couple people there, including the Berliners, Axel and Edna, and “Jello legs.” But if I am honest, I felt a bit conflicted about my apparent indifference to summiting Springer Mountain; so, I decided to find a tent site in the back away from the shelter itself and perhaps have some alone-time to think. By the time I got my tent pitched, a large group of college students from the University of Georgia arrived and set up around my little spot. Gratefully, they were quite pleasant and after pitching their tents, they all headed over to the shelter for dinner. I chose to stay put and have a private dinner of freeze-dried lasagna with sausage. After dinner, getting up from my Helinox Chair Zero, one of the chair’s joints snapped. This chair was the only real luxury item I allowed myself, precisely for times when I wanted to be alone at camp. Perhaps it was a sign. Nevertheless, now I had a useless 1lb chair to carry until I could pass it off to Nightingale in a few days. The remainder of the night at Springer Mountain was uneventful; I slept off and on and it rained some overnight, but both are standard when on trail.

spring flowers – misty morning – springer mountain

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