Camino Days 1 & 2

Etapa 1: Irun to San Sebastian

Days 1&2

I’m starting the Camino! Irun to Pasajes on day 1. I got a late start this morning after arriving on the train from Madrid the night before. I still hadn’t decided if I wanted to hike the next day or start the day after. I hadn’t decided until I went to the Irun albergue at 11 the next morning and they gave me a pilgrim passport and pointed in the direction to walk. I walked until I got to Pasajes around 5:30pm and secured a bunk for the evening. 

I started the day in Irun and walked the short trek to the Spain/France border. I’m going to walk from here to the other side of Spain!

I followed the yellow arrows and signs out of Irun and into the mountains. I honestly gasped multiple times on this day. The first was leaving the city and seeing the mountains for the first time. It was a gorgeous day, sunny and high 60s-low 70s.

The first climb was Mount Jaizkibel. Honestly this hike was harder than I expected. I did choose the route that takes you up the mountain and across the ridge line for the best views, but they weren’t joking about not underestimating this section. 

I passed so many kind day hikers saying “Buen Camino” and pointing me in the direction of the trail whenever I stopped and looked at my phone. There were nice water spigots often and the yellow signage was mostly easy to follow. This one sneaky fence had me (and I found out at the hostel many other people) confused on where to go. 

There were tons of cows, horses with their babies, and views of the ocean! A lovely start to this adventure. I couldn’t have asked for better weather. I stopped at the first albergue I came across because it was getting late.

When I got to the hostel the man thought my first and last name sounded Spanish–that’s my favorite compliment to receive in Spain. My sister’s boyfriend said that to her when they first started dating and it’s maintained my ego since.

With just enough time for me to run out, eat a cheeseburger and get ice cream, a big storm rolled in. It poured rain, there was thunder and lightning–I was glad I hadn’t tried to push on to San Sebastian tonight.

The abergue was about 75% full and I was one of the last ones to arrive even though they don’t open until 4pm. It’s cash-only donation based and is pretty bare bones. Bunk and pillow–they give you a single-use mesh (more like the footy socks they give you to try on new shoes at a store) protection sheet for the pillow and for the mattress, the rest is up to you. I have my sleeping bag liner with me and was a little cold but slept fine. There were 2 floors of 6 and 8 bunks each and downstairs had 2 toilets and 2 large showers. Lots of clotheslines for hanging stinky and wet gear.

The first night in the albergue taught me a few things.

1. I should’ve brought a towel for showering at the hostel. I did get sweaty yesterday but didn’t necessarily feel like I needed a shower, but I would never have turned down the opportunity. There was an older couple that showered together in the hostel shower which honestly felt less strange because we are in Europe? I can’t explain it. They were also fully having a conversation.
2. I should’ve brought my headlamp–I did bring it to Spain but left it at my sister’s apartment. (On purpose with my comb, deodorant, and puffy jacket I didn’t think I needed). It would make me feel better when starting before the sun is up or if I end up pushing some extra km at the end of a day. The abergue also turned off the lights promptly at 10pm and back on again at 7am this morning. (Our queue to pack up and go even in the storm.)
3. I’m lucky to be a good sleeper. Give me a set of earplugs and something to cover my eyes and I’m set for a good night’s sleep. I could hear some snoring over my earplugs but could easily drown it out. I felt well rested and ready to go the next morning.

Day 2! 

The next morning it was still raining and it was cold. The weather app said 52 but felt like 40 with the wind. The wind was nuts. I’d made a few friends to start the day with in the albergue. We took the ferry across the bay and hopped back onto the Camino on the other side.

We were advised by the albergue host to take the road route and not climb Ulia on the Camino proper route because of the rain, mud, thunder, and lightning (fair). It was nice to cruise on the cobblestones from Pasajes to San Sebastian in just a few hours. 

I did overpack on rain gear because I was worried about my computer. I got a last minute rain cover (and toe socks) from a Spanish sports store the day before I left Madrid. I had the cover over my pack and then a poncho to cover both me and the pack. It worked super well for the rain but I was definitely cold. 

I didn’t put on either of my long sleeved layers because I knew once I had the poncho on I wouldn’t want to take it off to shed a layer. I did wish that I had some gloves though. I chose my hiking poles over the umbrella and honestly felt pretty cozy in my poncho cocoon. My poles have been great, I’m so glad I brought them. They definitely gave me more confidence on the slick cobblestones.

My feet were soaked but honestly it didn’t feel bad. I was wearing my toe socks–one of the recs I received for blisters–and honestly I kinda liked them. I think they were a good choice for a soaked-feet day.

I made it to my hotel for the evening. I was staying there for 2 nights to have a day to explore San Sebastian–and on Easter no less–so I wanted somewhere cozy, private, central. It’s nice to have a room to myself to hang up all my wet clothes and take a hot shower. I’m still not warm enough from this morning to brave going back outside yet. The hotel also has a free coffee machine which was truly magical to have a burning hot americano.

Even though today was a cold and rainy day I’m grateful to be here and to be able to do this <3

Current favorites:

• Dino graham crackers: Been eating these like crazy and the box has the names of the different character shapes on it <3
• Silence: I walked in silence the whole 6 hours of the first day. I also pretty much walked in silence during the rainy morning hours. Idk what this says about me.
• Hotel candy bowl: I picked red, pink, blue to try. Not the best flavors but the texture was great, kind of like a softer starburst.
• Lemonade: This one I got from Lidl is perfectly sour. 

Today’s Keep Moving by Maggie Smith

“Approach today–each day–with eagerness. Approach the day with the spirit of Yes, please. Drink it in. Yes, please. More, please. Keep Moving.”

This felt fitting on my start of the Camino. I was/am nervous. I have no idea what I’m doing, what to expect, I’m basically alone–but that’s also SO exciting! Can’t wait to see what’s next.

xo

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